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A breathtaking couture Edwardian wedding gown crafted between 1898 and 1904 by the Caroline’s Chicago atelier, originally tailored for the wife of a ship captain.
This rare surviving masterpiece embodies the refinement, romance, and craftsmanship of high-society bridal fashion during the Gilded Age, retaining its original “Caroline’s – Chicago” couture label.
Made from luminous ivory silk satin and richly adorned with raised satin appliqués, delicate lacework, embroidery, and a sweeping train, the gown presents with exceptional visual impact and historical integrity.
Handwritten Provenance
Inside the bodice, a delicate handwritten name label remains stitched into the original corsetry structure. The inscription appears to read “O. H. Luys”, believed to be the name of the woman for whom this gown was originally tailored — the ship captain’s wife referenced in the auction provenance. Handwritten internal name tags were a hallmark of bespoke couture garments in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, used during fittings and final delivery.
This personal mark adds a rare and intimate layer of provenance, further elevating the gown’s historical significance.
Professional Conservation & Restoration
This gown underwent a museum-level restoration, performed to preserve its beauty and structural stability while honoring its original design.
The work included:
• Replacement of the deteriorated interior lining with new, pure silk, selected to match period drape and movement.
• Preservation and reintegration of the original ruffles and flounces.
• Stabilization and masking of tiny pinholes and silk weaknesses using authentic antique lace appliqués.
• Axilla restoration: The underarm areas, which showed significant wear typical of antique silk, were carefully reinforced and then beautifully covered with antique embroidered tulle in the exact matching shade, resulting in a seamless, period-authentic appearance.
• Discreet reinforcement of stress points and seams to support longevity while maintaining historical authenticity.
Every intervention was executed with respect for the gown’s provenance and couture construction.
Condition & Wearability
The gown is in wearable antique condition, with the expected minor imperfections of a 120+ year-old silk bridal piece.
It may be worn for a wedding ceremony.
However, it is not recommended for dancing or a full reception, as antique silk can be sensitive to movement and perspiration.
Fit Note
The waist is very small, typical of Edwardian corseted proportions.
A skilled professional seamstress can adapt the fit if desired by:
• opening the back
• adding a discreet period-style panel
• extending the closures
• creating subtle ease without altering the silhouette
These modifications can make the gown wearable for a modern bride while respecting its historical architecture.
Display Note
In photos, the back appears open only because the mannequin is too small for the gown’s original measurements.
Nothing is missing, altered, or damaged on the back.
The gown closes fully when placed on a correctly sized form. It was left unfastened to protect the antique silk.
Details
Era: 1898–1904
Label: Caroline’s – Chicago (original couture)
Fabric: Silk satin, lace, embroidery, antique tulle appliqués; new pure silk lining
Use: Ceremony, museum display, collection, editorial, study
A romantic heirloom preserved with extraordinary care — a true example of Edwardian couture and the elegance of a bygone era.
Measurements: garment lying flat. Measurements are in inches. (Las medidas están en pulgadas 1Pulgada=2.54cm).
Neck: 5"
Shoulder: 13"
Armpit: 15"
Waist:
10"
Hips: 26" lining skirt / 45" outer skirt.
End Width: 71"
Total Lenght from Shoulder: 70" Back / 58" front.
For reference the mannequin is a women’s size 2-4 USA with the following measurements:
Chest: 33.86”
Shoulder: 15”
Waist: 26.7”
Hips: 24”
The model is a size Small and her Measurements are:
Bust: 81.28 cm / 32
Waist: 68.58 cm / 27”
Hips: 88.9 cm / 35”
Hips: 90 cm / 35.43”
PLEASE CHECK MEASUREMENTS BEFORE PURCHASE! Antique hand made items where handmade and differ to standard sizes. Please check the measurements closely for determining fit. I do not give sizes for vintage items as women's sizes are not standardized and a majority of these dresses were homemade or specialty made to fit one person. Also if vintage items are size tagged they usually run smalller comparing to the actual sizes. A good method to check is to measure a similar item that fits and compare.
If you have any questions about the fit feel free to ask, I am happy to help.
PLEASE check measurements before purchase. A good method is to measure a similar item that fits and compare.
Please remember that Vintage Items have been previously worn and loved so a small flaw may go unnoticed.
** Ready to ship in 1 business day.
INTERNATIONAL BUYERS PLEASE MESSAGE US YOUR PHONE NUMBER. Your number will be used only for delivery.
International Shipping and Customs Duties
Import Taxes, and/or fees imposed by the destination country are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility.
There are being delays in Shipping due to the pandemic. LuluBoopVintage is not responsible for shipping delays or lost package but I always ship with insurance and we will help in managing claims.
Please Note :
Any accessories used in the picture are not included, there are there to show how the outfit could be worn or a decorative object. I need to be honest. I sell Vintage and Antique Clothing and I would say anything before 30s should be treated with care and worn with care. Mostly these items will be fragile especially 20s silk or Edwardian very fine Muslin. Some can not handle stress and will tear easily. Should be bought a size bigger where possible or should be a little loose on.
Things to consider when buying Edwardian or Victorian clothing:If an item is marked XS but looks loose and big! It maybe has a Medium Shoulder and Hip but the waist is Tiny! (Corsets!). It may look big and loose but the shoulders or opening of the arm will be small, or the waist.
- The sleeves may not be long to the wrist but more of a 3/4.
- Buttons also may vary in shape and size on the same blouse, these blouses are old and would have lost buttons along the way.
Happy to answer any question.
Thanks for visiting.
Lulu Boop Vintage
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